Welcome to the best blog on the web...pho sho!
We'll be acting as taste-bud tourists, sampling and critiquing various food stuffs as we make our way across Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand. Chances are that we'll encounter more than a few spicy noodles and sumptuous scrimps, but how - you may ask - will these dishes affect our americanized digestive systems? To find out, drop by for postings, photos, and possibly the craziest fruits you've ever seen.
The 36 hour day
Meal 1: Dinner on the plane. Unspecified 'beef with rice'.BDM – Wow! No mini bag of pretzels? It's been quite some time since I've been treated to a hot meal on a flight. Beef with rice was warm and rather tasty. Fruit was pretty good too, but I steered clear of the shrimp salad under plastic. Props to EVA air for the biodegradable cutlery.
JM – Even though we'd just eaten a dinner of take out pizza a few hours earlier, I decided to take one for the blog, it is a culinary blog afterall, and ate a second dinner. And, as BDM already noted, we don't get hot meals on planes much these days. Nothing spectacular to chime in on my part, but it didn't make me want to run to the bathroom either...
Meal 2a: Breakfast (1) on the plane. Mushroom & cheese omelet. BDM – yeah, I copped out on the more authentic choice for breakfast (rice porridge, see below). But I'm sure to have plenty of non-western meals ahead. Tater tots elicited a nostalgic reaction at first, but that faded quickly away as the mushy-ness of the tots became apparent. The fruit, however, was great: fresh pineapple and grapefruit are a welcome sight after 10+ hours in the stale air of the planes cabin.
Meal 2b: Breakfast (2) on the plane. Rice porridge.JM – being a big fan of asian-style breakfasts, I anted up for the rice porridge, boiled peanuts, green beans, and steamed bun for breakfast. It wasn't great, but it beat the omelet my neighbor was eating (in my opinion.)
Meal 3: Breakfast at Taipei airport. Japanese noodles in bone broth, Dumplings with veggies and minced pork, dumplings with meat.
BDM – I thought about ordering a sandwitch! The dumplings with veggies & pork were tasty, but the ones with straight up meat were even better! Had that juicy 'explode-on-contact' type reaction when you bit into it. I also thought that the ginger shreds in the soy sauce were a nice touch. Truth be told, I was really just happy to be off the plane after the 13.5 hour leg to Taipei (whose airport felt pretty surreal...not sure if it was the time shift, or the hello kitty gate our flight to hanoi departed from).
JM – i'm sensing a theme here—2 dinners, 2 breakfasts...this can't last. Once again, really enjoying the soup option for breakfast. Was a little uncertain about the “bone broth” but it was tasty and perhaps something got lost in translation?
Meal 5: Dinner in Hanoi. Cha ca (local hanoi speciality).JM – figured our first dinner in hanoi should be an authentic one. I'd heard a lot about this cha ca place, so I thought we should hit it up, plus it's pretty close to our hotel—key given our uber-jet lagged status. The place only serves one thing, which I think is a good thing right? It's got to be good. Cha ca is basically a dish of white fish cooked with tumeric (to give it the bright color) and then you throw fresh dill and spring onions into the pan and let the goodness cook. Next you pile your bowl full of bun (rice vermicelli), add the dill and fish mixture to your noodles, top with fermented shrimp paste (sounds gross but is tasty) and some roasted peanuts. So good!!
BDM – this was a super cool restaurant in the old quarter of Hanoi. Community tables, awesome charcoal hot-pots keeping the dish sizzling, and zero menu confusion. Very tasty!
BDM enjoying beer #1BDM – Awake for 14.5 hours after broken sleep on the plane. This single beer put me right to bed. I'll have to do some further research into the actual qualities of the local beer tomorrow...
A taste of tuesday from Hanoi
Mid Morning Snack: Vietnamese coffee and the 'Taste of Koto' sampler: shrimp spring roll, duck egg roll, and pork & mushroom stuffed pastry.
Lunch: ComViet. Fried rice, fried tofu w/ tomato sauce, fried squid 'ComViet' style, hanoi bia.
BDM – Squid was excellent! Texture was similar to the dumpling earlier and I really enjoyed it. The fish sauce with dill (for dipping) lends it a sweet and slightly salty taste. The beer was light...very light, which is refreshing after a long morning of touristing-about.
JM – fried tofu in tomato sauce took me right back to my days working in Saigon. The grandmother of the family I lived with used to make a dish very similar to this that I loved and I haven't had it since I lived in Saigon—more than 11 years ago!!
Dinner: Tandoor. Chicken tikka masala, navaratam korma, saffron rice, nan.
JM – After an afternoon nap, BDM and I considered hopping in a cab and heading to a popular restaurant that serves traditional street food, but we weren't sure if it had indoor seating and it was cold outside. So we decided to walk half a block from our hotel and have Indian food instead. Turns out Indian food in Vietnam tastes very similar to Indian food in America! We're off to Ha Long Bay tomorrow for a two day cruise on a junk boat, so we'll be back to eating the food of my people soon enough...
BDM – Hey, we're in Indochina so why not explore the Indo-taste? Unfortunately, the awesome Indo-flavor I was looking for wasn't at this particular restaurant. Meh.
Junk food
Lunch & dinner aboard Hai Phong #8: fish w/ ginger, shrimps (w/heads: see BDM enjoying a shrimp head at right), stir fried beef with veggies, fried pork, fried squids.
BDM – Great meal to power up for our kayaking excursion (we took home first place!) Seafood was super fresh and super tasty. It was so relaxing to be out on the water, away from the hustle & bustle (video) of Hanoi (well, almost...)
Caves, clothes, and cao lau
2/23/2008: Our return to land started with a stop at the “amazing” cave. And amazing it was. A huge cavern with suggestively lit outcroppings and crazy stalagtites, or are they stalagmites? Either way, they were very impressive. We stopped for a tasty, though not blog-worthy lunch before embarking on a long day of travel---3 hour bus ride to Hanoi, 1 hour flight to Da Nang, and a 1 hour cab ride to our final destination of Hoi An.
Street food Saigon-Style
2/24/2008: After awaking a little late this morning, we grabbed a coffee and headed out in the hot and humid south Vietnamese city. Google had me thinking that Bank of America had a branch in downtown Saigon just a mile or two from where we're staying. Conveniently, several landmarks were on the way: reunification palace, notre dame cathedral, random irish pub (...okay, the last one isn't in any of the guide books.) However, when we got to the BofA address we didn't find any ATM's, but rather AK47s! No bank in site, and he didn't exactly look like he wanted to exchange any travelers checks with us. Well - we thought - lets find some lunch.
Late Lunch: Vietnam House, Saigon. Cha Gio, Bo La Lat, Nem Nuong, Cha Ca.
BDM - Fried spring rolls (Cha Gio) were very tasty, stuffed to the gills with shrimp-n-pork goodness. I also liked the beef rolled in la lot leaves. There's just something about bite sized morsels of juicy meat and seafood that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. The 'mystery meatball' (Nem Nuong) was...well better than a swedish meatball. I didn't really care for the fried shrimp cake - tasted like a fried serving of tough tofu...bleh.
JM - A mostly unremarkable meal turned into a true pleasure when two old friends appeared on the sidewalk right outside the window of the restaurant. I hadn't seen Beth and Thai (the folks I lived and worked with in Saigon in 1997) in at least 10 years and had completely lost touch with them, so imagine my surprise when I saw them staring at me through the window!! I was so happy to see them that it pretty much wiped out any opinion, good or bad, that I had about our meal.
Dinner: Quan An Ngon, Saigon. Banh Xeo, lotus root salad with shrimp and pork, crab sauteed in tamarind sauce (Cua Rang Me).
JM - This joint is known as the place to go to sample traditional street foods and other well-known Vietnamese dishes in Saigon. The scene was hectic to say the least with crowds of people spilling out onto the street all vying for a table. We managed to squeeze our way through the crowd and, after agreeing to share a table with another couple, we were seated pretty quickly. We started off the meal with ice cold Saigon Special beer, served Vietnamese-style with a big mug of ice. This meal was a fingers-only affair from start to finish. Banh Xeo, is a thin crepe-like dish stuffed with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts. You tear off a piece, wrap it up with some lettuce and herbs, dunk it into some nuoc cham sauce and devour. So good.
We ordered the green papaya salad with pork and shrimp, but had to switch to the lotus root salad when we were told they were out of the papaya salad. The salad was shredded lotus roots, carrots, onions, herbs, shrimp and pork topped with roasted peanuts and served with shrimp chips. You pile the salad onto the shrimp chip (which resemble a light rice cracker) and then cram it into your mouth. yum, yum, yum.
The finale of the meal was the crab. A sticky, messy affair that had us thanking the fact that we'd put the travel pack of handi-wipes in our backpack. All in all, a really great meal and for $15 dollars, a definite steal!
BDM - I'd like to note two things here. First, it's never OK to drink your beer in a mug with ice. I've heard the saying 'when in rome...' but tonight it was straight out of the bottle for me, and with a little luck, it was already cold. Secondly, eating crab out of the shell with chopsticks is just plain hard. As messy a dinner as a BBQ rib joint, but you get more napkins at the BBQ. The meal, however, was delicious and well worth the mess.
Bad Chow Doc
2/27/2008: Due to the sudden onset of traveler's tummy among one of your intrepid bloggers (BDM) we have no culinary reports for this border town. See below for the not-too-graphic details...
Left Saigon for the Mekong delta and the border town of Chau Doc, about a 6 hour bus ride away. We stopped for quick lunch at some no name between here and there, and I ordered the 'Rispy' fried noodles. Turns out that the irish G.I. tract can't correctly process those noodles, and I was left in a rather, um...rispy state. Spent that evening an arms distance from the bathroom finishing up the first season of The Wire. By the next morning I was feeling better - albeit a few pounds lighter - and when we reached Phnom Penh, I was back to 100%.
Phnom-e-non
2/28/2008: Woke up in Chau Doc feeling much better(!) and hopped aboard a swift boat [video] headed north, up the Mekong river and into Cambodia. We were detained delayed briefly at the border when one of the Canadian's in our group was pulled aside by the guards for having a suspect looking passport (it accidentally went thru the wash a few months back, and is rather beat up). You really have to keep an eye on those neighbors of ours from the north! After some international relations - read: cash exchange - we were back on our boat headed up the river. Jessica & I were enjoying the sights from the back deck of the boat, when suddenly we heard a rather loud thunk! Did we hit something? Did some luggage fall off? The boat driver promptly killed the engine to inspect what was wrong. Forty-five minutes later, and a couple of hundred meters drifting back south in the currents of the Mekong, the capt and his first mate finally pulled this off the back end of the boat and up on deck (John Kerry would *not* be impressed!) We limped downstream back to the border checkpoint, and in no time a new boat arrived and we were off to Phnom Penh.
Dinner: Frizz's in Phnom Penh, Table-side grilling, Cambodian-style. Fish, chicken, beef, and veggies.
JM - We met up with another couple in our tour group and partook of this particular restaurant's specialty. They brought out a cast-iron pot loaded with red hot coals, topped it with an iron grill and showed us the ropes. We dipped the raw meat into a bowl of raw eggs and then threw it on the grill. The veggies followed. We plucked the food off the grill once it was done to our liking, dipped it into a yummy peppery, lemony sauce and enjoyed.
BDM - Agreed. The stomach was back in the game for this one, and it enjoyed every last morsel. Plus the tabletop charcoal grillin' had a fun fondue-ish social aspect to it. Beer was bottled cold and tasted good too!
Phnom Penh Day 2
We were originally set to tour the Toul Sleng (S-21) prison--the notorious prison where the Khmer Rouge imprisoned, tortured and killed thousands of Cambodians--but upon arrival discovered it was closed. Why was it closed? It turns out the chief commander of the prison during the genocide, who has been in prison himself since being captured in the late 90s, is finally being prosecuted for his involvement and for the first time was returning to the prison and taking officials around to recount what took place there. Talk about an historical day.
Our tour group headed out to Choeung Ek (the killing fields) just outside of Phnom Penh to witness and pay tribute to the largest of the mass grave sites in the country. It was here that the prisoners from Toul Sleng were brought, women and children included, to be killed. It seems trite to talk about this here, but we wanted to mention it nonetheless.
Lunch: Friends, Cambodian-style chicken curry, crispy (not 'rispy') wontons with shrimp
JM: This restaurant was similar to Koto in Hanoi in that it is staffed by disadvantaged kids who are taught how to run a restaurant. We ordered a chicken curry, crispy shrimp wontons and some sweet potato fries. The fries weren't good, so we didn't bother cataloguing them, but the curry and wontons were passable, if nothing extraordinary. Still I really enjoyed supporting the cause.
BDM - Curry? Already? Such a stereotypical thai flavor, I was really excited to see this on the menu. Good coconut milk flavor, and it has whetted my appetite for more curries as we approach the curry motherland (oh wait, is that India?)
Dinner: RomDang. Fried tarantulas & Fish Amok
JM: This one's for you Jeff!! RomDang is a sister restaurant to Friends, but the menu was so much better! Now that BDM was back in full form, we decided to dive in with the fried tarantulas. I was apprehensive at first, but after a shot of honey flavored Khmer style rice wine, it was go time! And much to my surprise, I really enjoyed these suckers. Fried up they taste a lot like soft shell crab. The meat of the body was very similar and the outside was crispy and crunchy like a soft shell crab. I wouldn't order this everyday, but I definitely enjoyed it beyond the novelty factor.
Fish Amok is a Khmer specialty, so we had to give it a go at this place. It's fish steamed in banana leaves with coconut milk, lemongrass and various other spices. The last time I had this was when I was in Cambodia in 2004 and got a nasty bout of food poisoning and missed Angkor Wat...so I wasn't sure if I was ready to revisit it on the eve of once again visiting the temples. But it was delicious and I woke up tummy ache free.
BDM - A special shout out to my sister Meaghan on her 24th birthday - and what better way to celebrate her birthday from abroad than by eating a fried version of her mortal enemy?? These arachnids are fried at a pretty high temp such that all the hair on their 8 legs was completely singed away by the time the appetizer arrived in front of us. Honestly, it doesn't taste like much at all (chicken anyone?), more of a carrier for the very tasty lime/black pepper/salt dipping sauce that came with.
Temples and Wat-not
3/2/2008: Spent the last two days in the fast-growing city of Siem Reap, a favorite hangout of Angelina Jolie. In an effort to honor this tomb-raiding, third-world-child-adopter, we found activities that truly embody all that is Angelina...namely, visiting the Children's Hospital and checking out the lost cities and temples of Angkor. The afternoon we arrived in town, several of us from the tour group headed over to Kantha Bopha - the new, modern childrens hospital (started by Dr Beat Richner) which provides free medical care to any Cambodian child. It's estimated that 1 out of 3 children in Cambodia have been to this hospital since it opened in 1999. BDM dropped off a fresh armful of Irish O-positive, then headed out to the bar for a celebratory drink (which always feels stronger than it actually is)! The next day we toured the grand-daddy of the temple complexes, Angkor Wat, and the largest complex - Angkor Thom. Got up early the following morning to catch sunrise [link] over Angkor Wat, then explored Ta Prohm (where portions of the movie Tomb Raider were said to be shot) and several other jungle temples. I don't know how Dr Jones managed, but exploring ancient civilizations in the hot SE Asian sun really works up an appetite!
Dinner (Day 1): Khmer Kitchen, Khmer dumplings, chicken curry
BDM - These were gross
JM - I agree. The Khmer dumplings tasted like gelatinous, gluey globs of bland nothingness. Even the tasty sweet chili dipping sauce couldn't save these suckers. The curry was okay, but not worth posting a photo.
Dinner (Day 2): Kama Sutra, Chicken Tikka Masala, butter naan
BDM - Alright! There is good indian food to be found in indochina. Much better than our experience in Hanoi.
JM - An afternoon at the temples in the hot sun left me with a mild case of heat/sun stroke and so my tummy wasn't feeling up for dinner. A shame, since this was a really tasty restaurant. I had a few bites of the tikka masala sauce and then just stuck to rice and naan. But the naan was really good, definitely rivaled naan n curry in SF.
Lunch (Day 3): Abacus, Yellow Curry with Chicken
BDM - The curry seems to be steadily getting better and better the closer we get to thailand, and this one had me smiling! Not very spicy, but the coconut cream was delicious!
JM - Still not feeling great, so I had ginger ale and steamed rice for lunch. I'm sure you all know what those taste like.
Dinner (Day 3): Cambodian BBQ, Squids
BDM - Very tasty - esp with the fresh lemon pepper sauce. Also tried the crocodile (not shown) and it tasted like chicken, a game-y chicken.
JM - Still not feeling up for eating. So dinner was a bottle of water. deelish.
Black Market Bangkok
3/5/2008: After a tooth-rattling ride [video] thru northwest Cambodia to the border with Thailand, and a much smoother ride to Bangkok, we were quite excited to be back in a 'developed' nation. With only one full day in Bangkok and with so many different sites to see, we decided to move into the present and tour the much talked about MBK mall, an all electronics - legitimate and not so legitimate - bonanza. Unlocked iPhones anyone? We wound our way through the alleyways of Khao San road (the backpackers district) to a water taxi station -- a mass transit system that takes you up and down the city on the Chao Phraya river. A much faster, and much recommended mode of transportation. We then took the sky train to the mall and spent a few hours immersed in a scene that brought on total sensory overload. It was packed and there were merchants everywhere selling mobile phones, mp3 players, cameras, bootlegged software, movies, music and much, much more.
Meal 1: Nice alleyway restaurant, Spring Rolls, Pad Thai, Red Curry with Chicken.
JM - I was feeling a lot better and ready to eat some real food. I know, I know, we can get all this stuff back home, but I figured I might as well try the Pad Thai here. It was really good. Way better than the gluey, tomato-y crap they serve in most Thai restaurants in the states. It was well worth the 2 day fast in Cambodia to ready my stomach for some Thai food.
BDM - Picked up a bit of a sinus cold as we arrived in Bangkok (it had made its rounds thru the cambodian travel group). Only one cure for a stuffy nose...some spicy Bangkok flavors <rubbing hands together>!! Started with spring rolls which were pretty standard, but arrived with a sweet chili dipping sauce which had
more heat than back in the states. Followed it up with spicy red curry with chicken (looks yellow). They tossed a few extra small unnamed peppers into the curry when the obnoxious irish boy ordered it spicy. And yes, it was spicy...not overwhelming, but did indeed induce perspiration on the back of my neck. Just what I was looking for!
Meal 2: Rakk, Pad Thai, Tom Kah Gai
JM - Some of you may know that I have a habit of getting stuck on one dish and eating it over and over until I can't stomach the idea of eating it again for a few years. Pad Thai seems to be my current obsession. This one was quite different from the one the night before. More tangy and made with thinner rice noodles. The noodles had been pan fried a bit more so there were some nice crispy, chewy, charred bits. It's hard to compare the two since they were both good. So I would say they were "same, same, but different" to borrow and oft-used phrase in this part of the world.
BDM - Traditional Thai soup time for me as I continue my quest to kick this sinus cold before heading to the beach (Okay, okay, maybe i shouldn't have stayed out late last night drinking and playing foosball with the cool kids...). The soup was outstanding! The coconut milk base is just head and shoulders fresher and tastier than anything i've had before. With such a delicious base to work with, the crazy thai mushrooms, chicken, and spices combined to be the proverbial 'icing on the top'.
We also snapped a pic of the way the steamed rice was presented. Yup, it's a bear. A delicious, starchy bear.
Life's a beach
3/8/2008: After "roughing it" for more than two weeks, we were looking forward to a little luxury on the beach. We flew south to Krabi then hopped aboard a longtail boat to finally make it to our resort on Railay Bay (Laem Phra Nang). Arriving here is great; the longtail drops you off in the shallow waters of the bay, and you literally wade ashore with your luggage on your back and warm water up to your knees (note to self, wear shorts next time). On day two, we hopped aboard a speedboat [video] and headed out to Koh Phi Phi for some hidden beach exploring and some snorkeling action (saw some clown fish and a moray eel!) But on this leg of the trip, we were all about pampering ourselves. With one hour massage treatments at our resort's spa topping out at a whopping $19, we took it upon ourselves to enjoy 1 a day...for 3 days straight! Traditional Thai massage was BDM's favorite (and let me tell you, those little old thai ladies are strong!).
Meal 1: Lunch on the beach, American Fried Rice
BDM - I've never seen this dish in america, but it's really not a bad little lunch plate. Fried rice topped with a fried egg, with a side of fried chicken (apparently american's like fried food?!?), sausage, and a piece of ham. I steered clear of everything that wasn't fried, but the rest was quite tasty. That flower on the side of the plate is actually a carved mango (a seemingly popular activity).
Meal 2: Dinner on the beach, Deep fried fresh sea bass with garlic & pepper.
JM - We wandered by this establishment steps away from our resort and saw a tempting array of fresh seafood on display. We picked out a sea bass and had them deep fry it up and top it with crispy fried garlic and pepper. So good! We should have ordered two!
BDM - Yup, Di was right...fresh fish on the beach is the way to go. After the weigh-in, it's cooked up however you want. Reminds me of the fresh fried tilapia on the beach in chacala mexico! Fresh, fried, and fantastic! The crumbly garlic pepper topping was a great compliment.
Meal 3: Dinner on the beach, Grilled fresh tuna with four sauces, Seafood skewer.
JM - We went back to the same place for dinner and picked a different fish--tuna--and had them grill it up this time. Unfortunately, I had no idea I don't like tuna! Much like the canned stuff, fresh grilled tuna has a very strong flavor, and with no mayo to cut the flavor, it was too much for me to stomach. So BDM was left to polish off the majority of this sucker. The seafood skewer was good though. Loaded with fresh vegies, pineapple, squid, shrimp and king fish, it was definitely tasty. I wish we could eat like this all the time!
BDM - What?! I have to eat another fresh fish on the beach? I love this part of the vacation!! Of the four sauces to choose from (soy, tamarind, lemon-pepper, and spicy), the spicy one was my favorite. Perhaps the strong flavor of the fish had to be complimented with an equally strong spice. Either way, once JM threw in the towel, I didn't mind stepping up to polish this bad boy off (even though yesterdays fried fish was better). Oh, and while we were eating we were treated to this crazy beach party show [video].
The end of the road
3/12/2008: After traveling over 17,500 miles, enjoying over 120 meals (between the two of us), and sampling more than 10 different types of local beer (in various quantities), we somehow still managed to lose weight over the course of the vacation! (Move over Jennie Craig, here comes Rispy Noodles!)
We're happy to be back home, and couldn't wait to treat ourselves to pizza, burgers, and the other tasty dishes we've grown accustomed to here in the states. Grease-laden american classics aside, there were several meals we experienced that we won't soon forget.
- Cha Ca in Hanoi
- Crab in tamarind sauce in HCMC
- Fried fish (on the boat in Ha Long Bay and on the beach in Railay Bay)
- Hoan Thanh Chien in Hoi An
- Cambodian style table grilling in Phnom Penh
BDM's Top 5 meals:
- Tom Kah Gai in Bangkok
- Hoanh Thanh Chien in Hoi An.
- Cambodian style table grilling in Phnom Penh.
- Cha Ca in Hanoi.
- Fried Sea Bass on the beach.
BDM's Top 5 beers:
1. Tiger Beer
2. Beer Chang
3. '333' Beer
4. Saigon Special (w/o ice!)
5. Beer Lao
Some of our favorite media memories:
- Tuk Tuk ride in Phnom Penh [video]
- Kayaking in Ha Long Bay
- Sunrise at Angkor Wat [video]
- The beach at Railay Bay
- Various communist propaganda
We really appreciate all of the comments and well wishes from everybody. It was very comforting to hear from our friends and family while we were half way around the world!
See you next time!



